Jacuzzi has discontinued sale of the 230 Volt Laing E-10 and older SM909 model circulation pumps. While the Laing E-10 pump is still available, the durability of this pump has been an issue for many people. We have assembled a retro fit kit that will be a simple replacement for almost all J-300 series and J-200 series.
The new Grundfos pump is taller than the original equipment Laing pumps, so a new location to mount the pump is necessary. This Grundfos pump has 1" barbed fittings, as opposed to the 3/4" fittings on the Laing models. This kit includes everything you could possibly need to easily install a more reliable (and less expensive) circulation pump. This kit will fit all J-300 LED and LCD model hot tubs with 230 Volt Circulation pumps.
NOTE: If you have a 3 pump J-380 or J-385, especially with a stereo, it gets pretty crowded in the equipment bay, and you may want to consider staying with the original equipment Laing pumps.
The Kit Includes:
- Grundfos Circ Pump with 1" Barbed fittings.
- Power Cord
- Mounting Bracket
- 1" X 3/4" barbed adapters
- 1" X 3/4" 90 degree barbed adapters
- 3/4 X 3/4" 90 degree barbed adapter
- 3/4" X 3/4" barbed coupler
- Hose clamps 1" and 3/4"
- 18" 3/4" vinyl tubing
- 18" 1" vinyl tubing
Here are some pretty basic instructions for installing the Grundfos pump in most 230V two pump systems.
Make sure the power is OFF! Disconnect the power cord at the circuit board. You can either drain the spa, or clamp off the water lines with vise grips or comparable clamps and leave the spa filled. Careful not to cut into the water lines. You can use several layers of tape or use a cloth to provide cushioning if needed. If it's really cold , you will want to heat up and soften the lines with a heat gun or hair dryer prior to clamping .
The original equipment circulation pump is located behind the control box. It's held in place by two phillips head screws on the suction side of the pump and two 3/4" vinyl plumbing lines with hose clamps.
Remove the two screws, compress and move the two hose clamps off the pump fittings. Leave the clamp that is attached to the heater. The suction line on the end of the pump is pretty easy to remove from the pump. We "roll" the heater/return line off by rotating the original circulation pump to the left, or counter clockwise, as the 3/4 vinyl line is really short and there isn't enough room to pull it straight back. Once the original pump is out of the way, you can start on building the new pump.
Generally, just to the right of the old pump between the control box and pump one is one of the larger open areas you'll have to work with.
Begin by deciding just exactly where the new pump will fit. You don't have to be too precise as the vinyl lines you'll be using are pretty flexible. Once you decide where the new pump will sit, measure how much plumbing you will need to add and subtract (cut off) to make your new connections. Rather than fight cramped spaces, I generally put the new pump at a right angle and use 90 degree fittings to get back to the original suction and heater in lines. If you choose to do it this way, you will need to shorten the original suction line.
This is the configuration I use most often. It consist of 3" of 1" vinyl with a 90 degree 1"X3/4" barbed coupler attached to the suction line and 6.5" of 1" vinyl with a 90 degree 1"X3/4" barbed coupler attached to the return line.
The kit comes with way more than this, so you can be confident that you'll have enough matierals to put the new pump where ever you want.
The picture below shows the new circulation pump installed. I set the pump on a 1" block and attach the block to the spa floor. Remove all your clamps if you used them and make your wiring connections at the circuit board and you are ready to go.